Sugar Plum Vegan: Bottomless Brunch

The last MuffinTopped mention of Sacramento’s vegan brunch scene (at Fox & Goose) evoked emotions metaphorically lacking in highfalutin cartwheels or cries of vehement exclamation. Yet there are no such critical misgivings slash statements of noncommittal in today’s writing vicinity. This forthcoming tale of heavenly Bottomless Brunch takes place at Sacramento’s only all-vegan restaurant, Sugar Plum Vegan Cafe.

Any vegan lumberjack* would declare herself one grossly satiated customer after such a mountainous feasting. As I shuffled past the arrangement of chafing-dishes, I loaded up on “hempy blueberry pancakes,” seasonal tofu frittata, halves of creme-filled cookie sandwiches, roasted potatoes, salad, and a few tumescent strawberries. I sang conversational praises to all of my plate’s contents except for the tofu frittata, which I diagnosed as bland goop, and the all-too-austere salad (waving its leafy tendril back left). In this traditionalist’s belief, no salad has the right to intrude on the sacredness of brunch. All other fractions of the pie plate could be described utilizing every obsolete word comprising the “delicious” thesaurus entry.

* Is such a hopeful writer’s creation equivalent to belief in Bigfoot?

What the lauded Arrested Development series is to television aficionados, biscuits and gravy are (is?) to brunch devotees. In plain speak: conquering legend.

Since I count no blood links of any kind to this dish I can only reflect, without hyperarticulate comparison or description, that I immensely enjoyed Sugar Plum’s version. I would have preferred a more circular biscuit bedecked with flaky layers, but this doughy, amorphous butter pastry was no slouch t’all. The gravy was thankfully smooth and saporous whilst immaculately compensating for the biscuit’s semi-dryness. I’m coming off a bit Negative Nancy, but with critique’s hat clamped on I cannot help but overanalyze the faults of a dish that I admittedly devoured with gusto.

The brother ponders lens cap in poetic stillness as the tree branches speckle his form in shadow.

Sugar Plum’s verdant front patio is a serene locale to indulge in the classic brunch pleasures: relaxed mid-morning conversation, thoughtful solace, and gluttonous consumption of comfort food.

If I were a tourist to Sacramento (although I am most unequivocally the opposite), I would spend my Sunday morning browsing through the rampant local delights of Midtown’s boutiques, used bookstores, and art galleries, concluding at Sugar Plum (after 11 a.m.) for a lazy, lingering brunch. “Krispy Kreme-like” doughnuts are served at 10 if hungry bellies bellow their impatience.

Trust my infallible culinary acumen: make the trek, become about ten bucks poorer, and revel in a vegan brunch available nowhere else in town.

Sugar Plum Vegan *Check Facebook page for daily menu updates.*

2315 K Street
Sacramento, CA 95816