The past decade has witnessed the term “gastropub” morph into a synonym for “pretentious ultra-spendy bar,” but Fox & Goose Pub rebelliously breaks off from the bourgeois trend. Their brunch is a bona fide Sacramento institution with diners barely forming a gawped mouth upon the news of a wretched 45 minute to hour wait; this is the hellish price one swallows for premium, unique British pub food with an (admittedly heavy-handed) American twist.
It’s practically the only place in town to procure a decent vegan brunch outside Sugar Plum Vegan (review to come). Plus, any menu graced by tempeh strips has my undivided culinary attention.
The Create-Your-Own Tofu scramble has all the potential of a well-stocked grocery store as long as the picker can form some chef-worthy gastronomic combo from the dizzying list of ingredient choices. My highlighted nosh: broccoli (ambrosial & salubrious), sun-dried tomatoes (expensive for a reason), avocado (vegan duh), and tempeh strips (a protein rarity whilst dining out). The scramble, mediocre compared to my PPK recipe homemade, was cursed by a chef prone to skimping on the spice shaking. However, the ingredients gracefully danced together on the tongue, with the avocado adding some much-desired flavor and the smoky strips stealing my tempeh-loving heart.
The English country potatoes, while compensating for all the spice my scramble lacked, suffered from 3rd-degree mush. The fruit cup swimming with farm-fresh berries, cantaloupe, and watermelon is a decidedly better side.
I’m often nonplussed by restaurant bread, but Fox & Goose’s walnut wheat sourdough is a bakery-inspired treat: nutty and hearty with that time-honored sourdough tang. That toast is begging to be schmeared full knife by the soft pulpy delight of the house raspberry jam (not pictured). This nectarous spread does America proud; still, no comparisons to French confitures because that’s jumping outside of its international weight class.
The fresh-squeezed OJ is thick and Vitamin-C-licious, showcasing this gastropub’s dedication to the simple brunch sundries that together combine to form feasting greatness.
Fox & Goose’s breakfast menu (PDF available on their site) has major vegan potential: a Vegetarian Black Bean Chili create-your-own scramble; a Curry & green onion scramble served with Branston pickle; and an intriguing Harvest Grains cereal with soy milk option. Personally, I have my vegan radar set on the latter.
1001 R Street